ROUTE DETAILS:

This drive starts at the Nevada/California boundary off the Walking Box Ranch Road at milepost 10. Turn left on the dirt road at the entrance sign to Castle Mountains National Monument. At the 0.4-mile mark, turn left at the junction of the two backcountry roads. 

At the 0.7-mile mark, you will see some old, dilapidated buildings and some mine scars on the adjacent slopes left over from historic times when the area was mined. This section of the drive goes through a wash environment that is lined with honey mesquite trees. Mesquites are well adapted to the dry desert environment through its deep, extensive root system which allows it to access water far underground, its small, waxy leaves that minimize water loss, and its ability to fix nitrogen in the soil. Mesquite is a legume, meaning it can convert atmospheric nitrogen into a usable form for plants through symbiotic bacteria in its root nodules, enriching the soil. 

Native Americans utilized nearly every part of the mesquite tree, using the beans as a primary food source, the wood for fuel and construction, and the sap for medicinal purposes. The mesquite bean was ground into flour, eaten whole, or roasted. The dense wood was highly valued as firewood for cooking and heating and was used for building house posts, beams, and other structural elements. The wood was also used to make tools like arrow shafts and handles. The sap from the mesquite tree was used to treat various ailments like sore throats, stomach issues, and skin irritations. They also made varieties of candies from it, and some even chewed it as a sort of gum. They used the tree’s strong but sinuous roots in basketry and other forms of weaving. 

At the 1.53-mile mark, you start up a hill heading south and enter the heart of the rugged Castle Mountains. The high-quality desert habitat along this section of the drive includes some of Mojave Desert’s finest Joshua tree stands and best native grasslands. The grassland habitat is a hotspot of botanical diversity. The unique plant assemblage includes several dozen species of native grasses, a number of which are rare, including burrograss and false buffalograss. The area also has the only stands of diverse C4 perennial grasslands west of the Colorado River, a subtropical grassland that is normally found in the Sonoran Desert uplands in Arizona and Mexico. Grass species common in this plant community flower and seed during the warm seasons of summer and fall, especially after strong monsoon rainfall events. 

These perennial grasses play critical roles in soil stabilization, carbon sequestration, habitat creation, nutrient cycling, water regulation, and erosion control. They essentially hold the ecosystem together, produce the bulk of the organic matter which in turn provides the habitat for forb and shrub seedling survival. Without the perennial grass understory, the organic matter and nutrients in the soil oxidize and blow away.

As you continue to climb up the hill, you get commanding views looking northwest of the jagged volcanic Castle Peaks and looking straight north of the New York Mountains. The Castle Peaks are a cluster of epic sharp pinnacles carved by erosion out of volcanic rocks. They are quite spectacular, rising abruptly from a Joshua Tree woodland. The Castle Peaks got their name because they resemble the ramparts of a castle. Along this stretch of the drive, there are extensive stands of buckhorn cholla mixed in with the Joshua trees and grasslands.  

At the 2.4-mile mark, there are some old mine scars. In 1907, three prospectors, James Hart and brothers Bert and Clark Hitt, found pockets of rich gold ore in this area and staked claims. Just several miles across the Monument boundary in California at the base of Hart Peak, they developed the Oro Belle and Big Chief Mines and established the community of Hart. By early 1908, the town of Hart had nearly 700 people, a post office, telephone lines, and a weekly newspaper. By the summer of 1908, the population of Hart peaked at around 1500 residents. But the pockets of high-grade ore proved too small, and mining began to decline a year later. The newspaper and other businesses closed, the post office shut down in 1915 and Hart became a ghost town. 

At the 2.8-mile mark, the road goes through a narrow canyon for a quarter of a mile and the view then opens up to a geologic wonderland as you are in the very center of the Castle Mountains with a remarkable variety of geologic landforms. The Castle Mountains also contains important cultural resources that reflect a long history of prehistoric human use. Prehistoric petroglyphs and pictographs are found in the area and are of particular significance to the Fort Mojave and Chemehuevi Tribes, marking routes through the Castle Mountains traveled by both tribes. The Castle Mountains area links places to the south, like Piute Spring, to areas north, such as an obsidian collection site. While there is ample evidence of the passage of indigenous peoples throughout the Castle Mountains, more permanent occupation was limited by water availability, and most camping areas or settlements were temporary, facilitating hunting or allowing people to gather plant and other food sources.  

Roaming amidst the terrain along the route are desert bighorn sheep, mountain lions, coyotes, and bobcats. A herd of desert bighorn sheep lives on the steep, rocky slopes of the Castle Mountains. They traverse the area between the Piute Mountains and the New York Mountains. Desert Bighorn Sheep require freestanding water to get through the hot desert summers. The Nevada Department of Wildlife has constructed artificial water sources called guzzlers in the Castle Mountains to provide some supplemental water. You pass several of these guzzlers along the drive. 

Desert Bighorn Sheep are agile animals that are well adapted to the Monument’s dry environment, going several weeks without water while living mostly off grasses and, sometimes, cacti. The bighorns' concave hooves allow them to climb steep, rocky desert mountains quickly and easily, helping them escape predators such as mountain lions, coyotes and bobcats. Both male and female sheep grow their signature horns shortly after birth, and their horns continue growing throughout their lifetimes. Ewes have smaller, lighter horns that rarely grow larger than a half-curl. Older rams can have impressively curled horns measuring over three feet long and weighing as much as 30 pounds. Rams are known for head-to-head battles that can last as long as 24 hours.

Birdwatchers may spot Red-Tailed Hawk, Northern Flicker, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Black-throated Sparrow, Crissal Thrasher, Verdins, Brewer’s Sparrows, American Kestrel, Common Raven, Loggerhead Shrike, Bewick’s Wren, Bushtits, Ash-throated Flycatchers and Cactus Wren. Numerous bat species live in rock crevices and mine remnants in the area. Species of special concern found in the area include the Townsend's big-eared bat, California leaf-nosed bat, Swainson's hawk, golden eagle, desert tortoise, Bendire's thrasher, gray vireo and phainopepla.

Phainopepla are pretty common to see along this backcountry drive. The phainopepla is a striking bird with a long tail and a noticeable crest and are a Nevada Department of Wildlife state-protected species and a designated sensitive species by the Bureau of Land Management. Habitat loss is the main threat to these birds and the habitat here in the Castle Mountains seems to suit them well. You will notice that there is an abundance of desert mistletoe draped on some of the small acacia trees and mesquite trees along the route. The phainopepla's migration pattern is tied to the life cycle of mistletoe. The birds time their arrival in the desert just as mistletoe berries are ripening, typically in October. The phainopepla remains in the desert until May and some stay all year, The seeds often pass through the birds' digestive systems unharmed, and if the birds' droppings land on a suitable branch, the seeds may germinate into new mistletoe clumps. This helps disperse the mistletoe plant. In return for their dispersal services, the phainopepla get a plentiful food supply (in most years), and a place to nest.  

Mistletoe berries may be one of the ultimate superfoods for our feathered friends. All 10 essential amino acids have been found in mistletoe berries as well as lots of carbohydrates.  As noted, the berries are red, like the birds' eyes, and the birds often whistle while feeding in the thorny trees. 

The location and geography of the Castle Mountains also allow for a soundscape that is among the most naturally quiet in the United States. Additionally, the area's exceptional dark skies, rare in highly populated Clark County, offer excellent stargazing opportunities. 

One of the other remarkable things about this portion of the drive is the large number of barrel cactus on the mountain slopes. It’s like barrel catcus heaven. The shape of the barrel cactus is strikingly spherical, resembling a barrel—hence its name. This compact form minimizes the surface area that is exposed to the sun, and as a result, less water is lost through evaporation. The surface of the cactus is not smooth but lined with prominent ribs. These ribs allow the cactus to expand and contract accordion-style, depending on the amount of water it has absorbed. During drought, these ribs can be quite pronounced, allowing the cactus to conserve its much-needed resources. With a shallow but widespread root system, the barrel cactus maximizes rainwater absorption over a broad area. The roots are near the surface, ready to soak up any moisture from rainfall events, allowing the cactus to efficiently utilize every bit of available water.

During the night, the cactus opens its stomata – tiny openings on the surface – to take in carbon dioxide. It’s stored as an acid, ready for use during daylight. When the sun rises and photosynthesis kicks off, the cactus closes its stomata to reduce water loss. This way, the cactus efficiently uses water and sunlight to create the energy it needs to grow. The barrel cactus has yellow flowers which appear in a ring near the top of the tube. These flowers are structured to withstand the intense heat of the desert, opening in response to sunlight. They’re the plant’s reproductive organs and are crucial for seed production. 

Native Americans primarily used the barrel cactus as a food source, extracting water from its pulp in emergencies, and utilizing its spines as tools like fish hooks and needles. They also sometimes used the fruit of the cactus as food, either fresh or cooked, and the tiny black seeds were ground and eaten as well.

At the 3.3-mile mark, turn right at the junction of two roads. These grasslands here are full of Joshua Trees and tall yuccas. You will also pass one of the water guzzlers on your right. Here you get your first views looking southeast of Sprit Mountain (Avi Kwa Ame). Avi Kwa Ame is part of the Newberry Mountain Range and is a sacred place to 10 Native American tribes in Southern Nevada, California, Arizona, and Mexico who consider the mountain the beginning of creation and the spiritual and geographical center of the world. Mojave Tribal elders refer to the mountain as, “The place where shamans dream.” The mountain is capped by light grey granite bluffs. When driving this route as the sun starts setting in the west, the granite bluffs often turn an impressive pink/fuchsia color. 

For the more adventuresome, there is a spur road at the 3.5-mile mark that takes off to the right that goes about a mile and accesses some dramatic rock formations with spires and unusual shapes. 

At the 3.8-mark, there is a East Mojave Heritage Trail sign and a mailbox. This portion of the Castle Mountains Backcountry Drive is also a segment of the East Mojave Heritage Trail (EMHT) which is an epic 700+ mile adventure through some of the lesser traveled areas within the East Mojave Desert. The backcountry driving trail route was developed in the 1980s as an alternate overland route to the better-known (and much shorter) Mojave Road by Dennis Casebier from Goff’s, California. Casebier's goal with the East Mojave Heritage Trail was to disperse vehicle traffic throughout the East Mojave region while also introducing travelers to its lesser-visited areas. As he did with the Mojave Road, Casebier created a series of guidebooks—one for each of the four segments of the East Mojave Heritage Trail—containing detailed information about the region’s past, mining history, railroads, industrial developments, quirky stories, geology, flora, and fauna. Casebier installed a mailbox on each of the four EMHT segments for people to sign in to monitor usage. Casebier intentionally placed the mailboxes in locations that only those traveling the EMHT would spot so he could accurately monitor the usage of his specific trail. Only several miles of the Castle Mountains Backcountry Drive is on the EMHT.

At the 5-mile mark, there is a junction with another backcountry road. Take a left here. You are now moving out of the mountains heading east and traversing more gentle bajada slopes with sweeping views in all directions. Looking east is the Newberry Mountain Range, dominated by the granitic Spirit Mountain (Avi Kwa Ame). In the distance looking northeast is the community of Searchlight and the Eldorado Mountains. This is critical desert tortoise habitat and part of the Piute/Eldorado Valley Area of Critical Environmental Concern. Creosote and white bursage are the dominants species here, although there are stands of yuccas and some buckhorn cholla and other cacti species. 

At the mile-mark 8, the road bends around and heads north and then bends again and heads west at the 10-mile mark. Along this two mile section, you get great views of the east flank of the Castle Mountains, with Hart Peak dominating the skyline. Looking north, you see the New York Mountains and the 5,997’ Crescent Peak. There are also some scattered interesting geologic formations sticking out from the generally gentle terrain.

Just past the 10-mile mark, you are now looking down on a very impressive desert wash area filled primarily with mesquite and desert willows. The wash is about a quarter mile wide at this point and carries water coming off the adjacent Castle Mountains. Desert washes are essentially dry riverbeds or channels that are typically dry but can fill with water after rainfall, creating a temporary or seasonal water source. These desert washes are important for the survival of plants and animals in this hot desert environment, as they provide a source of water and habitat. 

At the 12-mile mark, there is a junction with another backcountry road. Take a left and you are now on a historic railroad grade and back into a Joshua Tree Woodland and grasslands vegetative community. This part of the drive is along part of the old Barnwell and Searchlight Railroad grade. This 23-mile long railroad connected Searchlight, Nevada to Barnwell, California and the larger rail network of the Mojave Desert. Between 1907 and 1910, the gold mines of Searchlight produced millions of dollars in gold and boasted a population of 1,500. Ore was shipped to Barnwell via the Barnwell and Searchlight rail service. The railroad was formed in April 1906 at the height of the gold rush in Searchlight. The 23 miles of track were laid down between May1906 and March 1907.  On April 7, 1907, just seven days after construction was completed, the railway was leased by the California, Arizona and Santa Fe Railway. On September 23, 1923, the line's track was washed out and was abandoned on February 18, 1924. Searchlight’s population during this time was dying and by 1927 the population was only around 50 people. Like many railroads, the valuable track was removed and recycled in other lines across the county. While driving this road, it is a little hard to imagine that an active railroad used to traverse the landscape.  

At the 13.2 mile-mark, there is a historic cattle corral and water tank. Ranchers historically grazed cattle in the area. By 1894, the Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company had consolidated its holdings in the eastern Mojave Desert. Much of this historic ranching operation lies within the Avi Kwa Ame National Monument and Mojave National Preserve. There is a direct connection between the Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company and the Walking Box Ranch as that was their headquarters in Nevada. Characteristic features of this ranching era can still be seen on the this landscape in the form of corrals, watering troughs, water tanks, windmills and piping.

The ranchers were able to develop innovative water allotment systems to widely distribute water resources from just a few natural springs. The cows were allowed to roam free throughout the desert, and when it was time to send them off to markets, cowboys on horseback would track them down and gather them up at corrals like this one. In 1990, the desert tortoise was listed as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service and the Clark County Desert Conservation Program developed a recovery plan that essentially halted livestock grazing in what is now the Monument area and the rest of Clark County.

Along this section, you are within a half-mile of the north escarpment of the Castle Mountains and their impressive grass covered black volcanic foothills. 

At the 13.2 -mile mark, there is a junction with another backcountry road. Turn right. Along this stretch, you are travelling through a beautiful grasslands and Joshua Tree habitat with outstanding views of the Castle Peak to the northwest and the New York Mountains to the north. The native grasses found here do not have colorful or showy flowers. They are wind pollinated and so do not need bright petals or nectar to attract animal pollinators as they propagate by rhizomes. For this reason, the flowers are simplified and usually small in size. The top region of a grass plant happens to be the plant’s flowers and seeds. Grasses adapt to the environment. While most plants grow from the top, grasses grow from the bottom. This means that they will not die off from being eaten by animals because they replace lost parts by “pushing up” the surviving parts that have not been eaten.

The drive ends at mile-mark 14.8 at the intersection with the Walking Box Ranch Road at the historic corral. 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

Should you decide to travel this route, you do so at your own risk. Always take the appropriate precautions when planning and traveling, including checking the current local weather, trail/road conditions, and land/road closures. Carry the appropriate safety, recovery, and navigational equipment and obey all public and private land use restrictions and BLM Monument rules. Carry a full-size spare tire and tire patch/plug kit—and know how to use it before you need to. Be prepared for spotty cell phone service or even no service. Bring more water and food than you think you’ll need in case of any